The consumer stated he did not know how fast he was driving, since the speedometer was inoperative. This vehicle had a swing in voltage of up to. I also want to point out that in order to maintain the same load on the old and the new alternators, I turned the headlights on, switched the blower to the highest speed and turned on the rear window defogger. After fifteen minutes the stator was at 146 degrees F. Where is help for the consumer????.
I am glad I finally got a chance to test and find the root cause of this issue. Since I was pretty sure that this was a charging system fault, I connected my tester to the battery and noted that the volts and amps readings were fluctuating as well. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing which indicated that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle. It sometimes reads inaccurately low and sometimes inaccurately high. Front diff has been a problem since the day we picked it up the have fixed different things on it. Since it is relevant I wanted to point out that the outside temperature was in the low fifties, as indicated by the thermometer in the rear view mirror.
I decided to take a temperature reading and it was at 162 degrees F. Something as basic and necessary to driving safety as speedometer function should, in my opinion, be designed to last the vehicle's entire intended lifespan without systemic failure. While driving at 65 mph, the contact noticed that the abs light illuminated on the instrument panel. It happens on the freeway the most. But this is a defective part put in the vehicle by gm and should be fixed by gm. If it sticks on 50 for example when I start my next trip it starts at that point,if I'm going 20 mph it says I'm going 70 mph,ect. Later that week, the speedometer displayed 55 mph while the vehicle was in park.
If not, you need a switch. I've not heard of anyone having this problem with this model truck but you doesn't mean it hasn't happened either. If the key is in the ignition, these parts are sending signals to each other. I have tried turning on and off, leaving off and restart. I'll send ya one for cheap if you still need one. An example of the strange behavior: Dimmer switch set to full bright, interior lights dim all the way to off. The engine had already been running about 5-6 minutes at this time.
You may also want to incorporate temperature testing of the output stud with a load on the alternator for 5 -15 minutes. I don't know if I am in compliance. This may cause inaccurate readings, including the speedometer and fuel gauge. I did however notice that the output stud at the rear of the alternator was quite warm. This happened suddenly, it has been this way for over 1 week. While driving 30 mph, he noticed that the speedometer displayed that he was driving less than 20 mph.
Sometimes dimming the switch brighter makes the lights dimmer, while this issue is occuring. The manufacturer has not been notified. The contact called the fire department but no report was filed. While driving 30 mph, he noticed that the speedometer displayed that he was driving less than 20 mph. While driving to her place of business, the speedometer displayed 100-120 mph. The output stud was now at 181 degrees F. She shifted the gear from drive into neutral and restarted the vehicle.
I then connected it to the battery positive terminal and then to the alternator output terminal. She shifted the gear from drive into neutral and restarted the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing which indicated that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle. My next action is a class action law suit. Since then it has worked some days other days it will not read beyond 50 miles per hour or it will be some bizarre reading. There was no problem with the connection so the issue is internal to the alternator. The only cost to you is the labor charge unless your willing to do the job your self.
If it clicks when you do this, the headlight switch is bad. I agree I'd try a junkyard switch for confirmation. From your descriptions and based on my personal experience with a much older model '76 Chevy pickup I'd say that the switch sounds like it's failing. An hour later, the contact noticed that the vehicle displayed difficulty stopping. Since you got a junkyard switch, no telling how much life it has left in it yeah that is why I got 4 of them! If not remove and unplug the cluster if the guage stays its just stuck if it falls when you unplug it you might have a short somewhere.
The manufacturer has not been notified. If the speed limit is the recommended safe speed. For verified failures between 70,001 miles 110,001 km and 80,000 miles 130,000 km on U. Your instrument cluster has gone bad, to pinpoint. One time it was indicating 120 mph thru a school zone!!! The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. After installing a new alternator I rechecked the readings and this is what I found in the first 2-3 minutes. Tap the cluster to see if it will reset.
I pulled a friends switch and tried it for a night in my truck, it fixed it. Dealership says no recall; not their resposibility. I have an 04 with 113k and a lot of night driving. This happened suddenly, it has been this way for over 1 week. It sometimes never comes back down after peaking at the maximum speed.