Once differential was dropped slightly, top right bolt on bracket was accessible and able to remove. They are covering under warranty but now that I read the hours I am just so disappointed for all parties. But I recall it being as complicated as the engine shown in this article. Didn't mess with anything else. December 1, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: A lot of people wish they could weld it, I bet. I've unbolted the engine and raised and lowered it attempting to find a way to reach that bolt. I used the same modified socket and wrench configuration on this bolt as I did on the diff bolt.
Loses its pliability basically and I had to pick it out of the groove. There are several good videos on youtube that walk you through this process. With the tab folded in lift the shroud straight up and out. Use a flat head screw driver and loosen the hose clamp, prepare a small catch container to collect the fluid in the hose. Doing so can save you a ton of frustration later.
To check this, you'll need to have a mechanic lift the car and check for leaks. I recommend draining the fluid from the reservoir and disconnecting the line from the reservoir to the pump, but leaving the lines out from the pump to the steering system intact. Unclip the air box's two clips, and slide the top of the box back and up. September 15, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will need to remove the alternator to the left, then remove it forward. Next, you will remove the front cross member covers so you can get the cooling fan and cowl out. If you are going to do this job yourself, there are a few things you need to know going in.
I removed the tire to give me more room to work, it is a really tight fit in there. Because of the expense i delayed and just about had a major engine failure due to catastrophic oil loss. The car intermitted starts, this thing has a brain of it's own. The bracket on the x5 is not attached to the engine mount, however, you do want to unbolt the driver side mount as you will be hoisting the engine in order to access a few bolts on the differential. Should I use any sealant on this gasket from hell? October 13, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. Is there less room because they are referring to the X5? Need to buy parts for this project? Then you can remove the other 3 bolts.
I wonder if that is the difference between having the valve seal problem or not, it seems to be. The belt can be quit stubborn to get on and off at the best of times, let alone if you are trying to do it yourself while holding a wrench on the tensioner. I am just trying to change the engine mounts. Thank god for that extended warranty. Now the plastic fan cowl can be removed just pull up and wangle out.
I also seen no need to even take the fluid from the power steering pump reservoir, simply take the two 10mm nuts of the mounting bracket and unhook the pvc line from engine that crosses over the reservoir and you can slide the whole tank and lines forward and down with the pump and you can lay the pump on ground if using jack stand to hold car up. Go to the trunk and disconnect the battery making sure the cable can not accidentally make contact with the terminal while you are working. I have a 2003 bmw 745i oil leak at alternator bracket. I swear there are no more bolts, every hole is empty and the bracket still won't move. I'll never have this problem again on my car. Remove the 13mm and 16mm bolts from the front and slide the alternator forward, then remove the connector and cable from the side of the alternator.
You will feed the disconnected and sealed oil pipe around the back of the alternator and hang the unit out of the way. Recently the thing shuts off while in cruising speed. Now you need to remove the alternator. Today I am told its the alternator. Hope this helps those that are struggling with the x5 n62 and saves you a couple grand. Also not a permanent cold weld but can be removed after heating a bit. At the same time, I have chosen to do the center cooling tube and valley pan gasket.
Move to the fan and shroud. Thank you May 3, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. It's leaking oil at a ridiculous rate, so it must be fixed wherever the leak is coming from. After you have removed the four bolts holding the mount to the engine, remove the single bolt holding the mounting arm to the mount. If the car is fine and I end up purchasing it, ill have the transmission flushed on my own.
If you strip them, the engine has to be taken out of the car to fix it, so take your time and work methodically. They are basically female Torx bolts red arrows, two shown. Also, the bushings on the alternator bracket can be backed out and adjusted with an allen wrench from the front, like tree man suggested. Has anyone had this happen before? The fact that there is more work involved with the x5 will ultimately raise the cost at the mechanics. The leak has stopped but now I have another problem. See step 10 here - Nick at Pelican Parts cnk Comments: Thanks boss for the advise May 27, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem. Do not re use the old fluid when you put it back together.
Is it brittle, melted, or misformed? Good thing these engines head gaskets are very strong and can sustain serious overheating. Thanks for all the posts, the detailed information was very helpful. I really need to know if anyone has fix for this. Will this cause further damage to the car? Do you also remove the alternator and other related parts on an M62 1998 engine to get to these gaskets? The engine mount is attached through the alternator bracket to the engine by four E12 Torx bolts, you must use the correct socket since they will be very tight. Try a light tap with a rubber mallet. Caveats: you need the skills and equipment and experience to even attempt this; the understanding it could go horribly wrong; and I wont be able to use an oil cooler as it was intended ever on this engine. I really need to know if anyone has fix for this.